The yoga theme wasn’t the only surprising discovery. “I remember the old days, when a shore excursion meant that you simply piled everyone in a bus and took them somewhere,” says Kramer. This trip included hiking on a glacier, paddling next to icebergs and even having a glacial-mud facial. “Landing on the glacier by helicopter was amazing,” says Kramer’s daughter, Kinzie, who celebrated her 16th birthday on the trip. “The electric blue of the crevasses is indescribable. This is an experience I’ll never forget.”

Gone are the days when shuffleboard-playing grannies were the mainstay of the cruise industry. Now cruises appeal to a younger, hipper audience, and it’s easy to see why. Modern cruise ships are “floating resorts,” offering everything from state-of-the-art spas and gyms to in-line skating and rock-climbing walls. Cruising is the fastest-growing segment of the travel industry, with 7.5 million people worldwide having set sail last year. Fifteen new ships will join the North American fleets in 2002, more than in any previous year. The cruise industry hopes the boost in capacity, plus the modern amenities of the newer ships, will attract the 87 percent of the population that has never taken a cruise.

The price is tough to beat. Hard hit by September 11, many cruise lines slashed fares considerably last fall and winter. Prices have bounced back somewhat, but you can still find fares at less than $100 per day per person–not bad, considering the price includes a room, all meals, activities and entertainment (except gambling, specialty restaurants and–on most ships–alcohol).

Many cruise lines have also responded to September 11 by redeploying ships closer to home. In America, travelers can depart from more cities than ever before–including small ones like Galveston, Texas, and Mobile, Alabama. Ships also stop at more ports, with over 1,800 destinations worldwide to choose from, according to the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA). This year’s top destinations will be the Caribbean and the Bahamas, Europe, the Mediterranean and Alaska.

What’s the allure? Many people cruise simply to “check out” a destination for a future visit, according to the CLIA. For example, Hawaiian interisland cruises allow passengers to sample each island so they can scope out favorite sites. Other cruises, such as those bound for Alaska, are famous for their onboard educational features. Sail the popular Inside Passage and Gulf of Alaska routes, and you’ll encounter naturalists, historians and park rangers onboard, teaching passengers about the region’s stunning glaciers, fjords and wildlife.

Some people bring their own special events onboard. Californian Michael Fischer wanted to make his older brother Tom’s bachelor party a memorable one. So he invited 14 of Tom’s high-school buddies to a four-day Mexican cruise on the Carnival Ecstasy out of Los Angeles. “What sold us on the idea was the all-inclusive nature of it,” says Fischer, 22. “You can just party without worrying about any of the details. You don’t have to move around, because the scenery changes on its own.”

Those who feel stressed about getting “away from it all,” even on vacation, needn’t worry: the high seas have gone high tech. Most cruise ships are “connected” with 24-hour Internet cafes, onboard e-mail addresses and video postcards. Some lines feature staterooms wired for Internet access, and many offer computer-learning classes. Friends and relatives back home can follow your progress via Webcams scattered throughout the vessel.

The industry has also gone overboard on themed cruises, where passengers can sail away on a murder-mystery tour or enjoy a film festival at sea. There are classical-music cruises, wine-tasting cruises and culinary festivals featuring world-renowned chefs. The venerable Queen Elizabeth 2 is offering a “Spotlight Series” on each of its 21 transatlantic crossings this year, with themes ranging from “British Comedy” to “Great Authors.” There’s even a “Family Entertainment” cruise in July, in which junior cruisers will be invited to perform scenes from “The Jungle Book” with the London Festival Players.

Indeed, cruise lines are eager to please younger passengers. Carnival’s “Camp Carnival” offers programs for three age groups. The Princess features activities like stargazing, ocean-habitat studies and toy-sailboat making. The QE2 has a full-time “junior activities coordinator,” as well as British nannies in the nursery. But if you’re looking for a ship geared for younger sailors, it’s hard to beat the Disney Cruise Line, which sails to the Caribbean out of Port Canaveral, Florida, and has replaced the standard casino with an entire deck of kids’ activities, including animation workshops, electronic games played on giant video walls and bedtime stories featuring Disney characters. It’s got the only full-service permanent nursery in the industry; parents drop kids off and keep in touch by pager.

The best–or at least the biggest–is yet to come. Next year Cunard will introduce the world’s largest cruise ship, the Queen Mary 2. Its 2,620 passengers will enjoy a spa managed by the prestigious Canyon Ranch of Arizona, the only planetarium at sea, interactive TVs, a grand staircase and a three-story dining room. Says Cunard Line president Pam Conover, “We will certainly put significant focus on having family facilities, so we will attract people who want to travel with their children. We’re determined to show that cruising has something for everybody.” Whether your taste runs to henna, heli-skiing or highballs.